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During the Edo Period, luxurious and beautiful wears were prohibited. Cloth and dyes were designated by the government, and wearing a kimono with the same cloth or dyes as the feudal lord was forbidden. Given this, each clan plotted to make a pattern unique to them, yet appeared plain at a first glance. This was called "Sadame Komon".
For this reason, there are plenty of pattern within the simple coloring of Edo Komon. Each pattern has its own individual meaning. The three highest ranked and fundamental patterns of Edo Komon are the "Same", "Kakutoushi", and "Gyougi". |
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| The biggest characteristic of Edo Komon is that, from afar, it looks like a plain pattern. Take a closer look to find an intricate pattern that will enthrall you. |
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As Komon was developed as a high-status pattern by the samurai warriors, as a kimono it was feared by the common folk. However, around the middle of the Edo Period, Kabuki actors, the fashion leaders of this time, came to like Komon, which lead to its spread among the men and women of towns and villages. Using plants, animals, and daily necessaries outside of the Sadame Komon, the common folk developed their own dye pattern, the "Iware Komon".
Countless patterns such as the "Takarazukushi" and the "Nanten" display the humor of the people from the Edo Period. |
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Approx. 12m Of Materials.
Perfectly aligning approx 20cm of the pattern paper together with 12 meters of the long material is the most difficult part of the process.
The detailed patterns on all of the pattern papers are completely engraved by hand by a skilled craftsman.
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Edo Komon uses an engraved Japanese paper called "Ise Pattern Paper", which has been heavily layered with persimmon juice. The defining characteristic of the Ise Pattern Paper on which Edo Komon is engraved is without a doubt its fineness. The pattern, which is so fine it appears blank at a first glance, is completely constructed by hand.
The dyer uses this pattern paper, and concentrating completely on the intentions of the engraver, starts with the white material. Through the harmony of the engraver and the dyer a beautiful colored item may be born.
In recent years, illuminated materials have become popular for the pattern paper.
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A beautiful lamp created from pattern paper.
※As this is a custom item, please contact info_en@jcrafts.com if you wish to purchase it.
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There are approximately 3000 different types of pattern paper at KOMON HIROSE.
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1. Applying The Pattern.
The materials are stretched out on a long board, then the pattern paper is affixed above the materials by glue. The glued portion will become the white-removed pattern that is unique to Komon. 20 Centimeters of pattern paper is applied, without even the slightest of waste, to approx. 12 meters of white material. To move the pattern paper in order while matching up to the very fine pattern, the highest and most refined skills are necessary. Only the engraved area of the pattern paper is dyed, and then the pattern is dyed onto the materials. |
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<Tools>
Tools are a craftsman's life!
You can understand a workman's ability just by looking at the tools he uses. |
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2. Bringing Out And Matching The Colors
Dyes are mixed together to bring out the color.
Controlling the result of the finish is crucial. Getting the same color to come out again requires exceptional skills. |
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3. Material Color Dye (Shigoki)
At the same time the glue is applied sawdust is also used. It helps the glue to stick, protects against grinding, and helps the dyes to stick to the whole thing. |
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4. Steaming
Before the material color and glue dries, its placed into a steamer box and steamed at 90-100 degrees Celsius for 15 to 30 minutes. |
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7. Correcting The Material
The finished materials are inspected, and any loss of dye is corrected. |
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6. Drying
After the materials have been rinsed, they are laid out to dry then widened out by hot water. |
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5. Rinsing
After the materials have been steamed, glue and excess dye is rinsed away with water. |
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